Tummy Tuck on a TJ

Couple of taps and the yoke is off.

Looking at the linkage, This does not look stock.

Back of the t-case unplug the speedo.

Then 7 15mm bolts and 1 10mm that must have a nut on the front.

Little bit of prying and this is what you have.

Everything comes out together.(Watch the spring on the shifter rod and the magnet in the bottom of the t-case)

Was amazed at how clean everything was. My TJ has 128000 miles and not junk in the t-case.

Here is how the back looks.

Here is the new short shaft that is going in.

Remove the front shaft and the chain.

Will continue.

This is what is under the Jeep. The clutch fork will move up and down. You will need to center it while putting the shaft back together.

Here is the magnet that fits in the t-slot you can see behind it. Make sure this is in while going back together.

Then put the two shafts back with the chain.

I will say that you need to pay attention to 2 things here. First is the spring on the shifter linkage. I had no problem with it, but the other thing is the oil pump. The oil pump needs to go with the case the half. It will be on the back of the shaft, But will not go on once the rear half is bolted up.

this is the first time I put it together. No oil pump,

This is the way it should look.

The oil pump is all I have to say.

Here is the rear cover. Leave it loose till the yoke is in place.

Rear yoke on. Notice there are no bolts for the rear shaft. I have left word that I want a 20" rear drive shaft. Once it comes in I will need to remove the rear yoke and put the bolts in. They will not go like it is.

That finishes up the SYE install. Now to the Novak cable shifter.

Novak Cable shifter. O.K. instructions.

Once I started to take off what I had under the Jeep, It was way different than the stock photos I was seeing.

Then I see it.

Looks like it already had a Skyjaker upgrade. Another swap meet part.

So remove all the linkage. Including the linkage on the t-case.

These 4 bolts need to come out. You will also need to remove everything from the t-case(2 14 mm bolts.) plus pry off what ever is stock on the shift lever.

This is looking from under the Jeep. Clean it so tape will stick.

If you have help you will not need to do this.

4 bolts from the inside. No Problem.

T-case bracket goes just like stock.

Then put the cable in.

Here is the new t-case attachment. I found it best to leave this loose. It is the easiest to get to. Make most of you adjustment here.

My mount to the shifter still ahs a little play. Will see if this is an issue.

Took about 20 minutes to get all the shifts right. Go from 2hi to 4hi to neutral to 4low. Make small adjustments. You have 4 places to make them so it should go O.K..

Sorry it got very hot about now and I wanted to be done. The rest of the steps have some photo's of the hi points.

Put the front shaft back in.

Fill her full of fluid. (2 quarts of ATF)

Put the new skid on. Just 6 bolts to frame the 4 to tranny mount.

Had to bull pin 2 holes. If nothing is tight everything should move O.K..

Top of transmission is very close to tub. Like 1/4". Nothing in the way jacking transmission up. Jack about an inch at a time. Was lifting the front of the jeep about a 1 1/2" when done.

Need to get some shorter bolts for skid. Then once Rear Shaft comes in remove rear yoke, Put bolts in, Then attach rear shaft. Will need to lengthen rear upper control arms to get the shaft to align.

With what I have done it should not be a problem for you to do this.

What tools did I use on this?

Power tools you ask. Yes I used an Impact and a Grinder.

Oops, Got to go. Looks like the mail lady just got here. I wonder what she has?

Did not show what she looks like now.

This is what I got. See how far the skid hangs down.

About the same place. See how much higher the skid is.